Elba is the third-largest island in Italy, sitting about six miles off the coast of Tuscany. Most people know it as the place Napoleon spent his first exile. Fewer know it has over 90 miles of coastline and some of the clearest water in the Tyrrhenian Sea.
The island gets busy in July and August, but even then you can find quiet coves if you know where to look. June and September are better. The water is warm enough to swim, the beaches are less crowded, and many hotels drop their rates by 30 percent or more.
Getting to Elba
Ferries leave from Piombino Marittima on the mainland. Toremar and Moby Lines both run multiple departures daily. The crossing takes one hour to Portoferraio, the main port. A foot passenger ticket costs around $11 each way. If you’re bringing a car, expect to pay $55 to $85 depending on the season.
You can also fly. The island has a small airport near Marina di Campo with seasonal flights from Milan, Florence, and Pisa. Most travelers take the ferry.
Once you’re on the island, a car helps. Buses connect the main towns, but beach access is easier with your own wheels. Scooter and bike rentals are available in Portoferraio and Marina di Campo.
The Western Beaches
Fetovaia is a horseshoe-shaped bay on the southwest coast with fine white sand and turquoise water. It faces west, so you get the sunset. The beach has a small parking lot that fills by 10am in summer. Get there early or walk down from the road above.
Cavoli, just north of Fetovaia, is bigger and more developed. You’ll find beach clubs with umbrellas and chairs for rent, plus a handful of restaurants along the main road. The sand is coarse but the water is shallow and calm, which makes it popular with families.
Seccheto sits on a rocky stretch of coast near Cavoli. Half the beach is smooth pebbles, the other half is granite boulders worn smooth by the sea. The water drops off quickly here. Good for snorkeling. There’s free parking along the road and a couple of bars within walking distance.
The Northern Coast
Sansone is one of the most photographed beaches on Elba. White pebbles, steep cliffs, and water so clear you can see the bottom at 20 feet. No services, no shade. Bring an umbrella and water. The beach is a 10-minute walk down a steep path from a small parking area on the road between Portoferraio and Enfola.
Biodola is the opposite: a wide sandy crescent with beach clubs, restaurants, and two large resort hotels. It’s one of the easiest beaches to reach from Portoferraio, about 15 minutes by car or bus. The sand is golden and the water stays shallow for a long way out. You can rent kayaks and paddleboards from the beach clubs.
The South and East
Marina di Campo has the longest sandy beach on the island, nearly a mile and a half of fine sand backed by pine trees. The town itself is the most developed on Elba after Portoferraio. You’ll find plenty of hotels, gelaterias, and pizzerias. The beach gets crowded in summer but there’s room for everyone.
Lacona, just east of Marina di Campo, is quieter. The beach is wide and sandy with shallow water. Much of it is free access. A few small beach clubs rent umbrellas at the southern end. Parking is easier here than at Marina di Campo.
On the eastern side of the island, Capoliveri sits on a hilltop above several small beaches. Barabarca, Pareti, and Innamorata are all pebbly and less crowded than the western beaches. The water is calm and good for snorkeling. These beaches face east, so you get morning sun and afternoon shade from the cliffs.
What to Bring
Many beaches on Elba are rocky or pebbly. Water shoes make a difference. Even on sandy beaches, the seabed can be uneven.
Beach clubs rent umbrellas and loungers for $20 to $30 per day for two people. Free beaches have no facilities. Bring your own shade, water, and food.
The island has limited-traffic zones in the historic centers of Portoferraio, Capoliveri, and other towns. Check the ZTL signs carefully or you’ll get an automatic fine in the mail.
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